Cook and Drink

Scallops (or Coquilles Saint-Jacques) are a seasonal product. In France they are available from October 1^st until May 15^th. In Nantucket the season runs from November 1^st through March. Perhaps your fishmonger sells scallops all year round. Most likely they were frozen which massively impacts the flavour and texture. Scallops must be fresh. If possible, buy them in their shell (opening them is not difficult, cleaning them can be a bit messy, this video explains more) or ask your fishmonger to do so.

Recently John Rieber and Dorothy’s New Vintage Kitchen published great recipes with Nantucket Bay Scallops. We bought French scallops from the Normandy region and prepared three dishes, one following Dorothy’s recipe, one classic gratin and one modern gratin.

Earlier we wrote about Vacherin Fribourgeois. This cheese originates from the region around the Swiss city Fribourg. It’s a semi-hard, creamy cheese made with raw cow milk. It matures for some ten weeks in a damp cellar. Its taste is aromatic, floral, full-bodied and lasting, with a touch of sweetness, bitterness and umami. Unfortunately, it’s difficult to get hold of. It can be replaced by a combination of Gruyere and Appenzeller. Emmentaler is not an option because when you melt it, it gets stringy.

Wine Pairing

We enjoyed a glass of white Macon with our Gratin de Coquilles Saint-Jacques. In general you’re looking for a fresh, round white wine, with notes of citrus and pepper, minerality and a touch sweetness.

What You Need (Modern Gratin)

• Scallops
• Leek
• Vacherin Fribourgeois
• Olive Oil
• Black Pepper

What You Do

This is our preferred version. The dish is an interesting combination of sweetness, richness, aromas and textures. It’s fun to serve in a shell, but it makes for challenging eating. Better to serve in ramekin, which also allows you to serve three scallops per person!

1. Thinly slice the white of a leek and leave it for 30⁺ minutes in a pan with olive oil on very low heat.
2. Taste the leek, it should have just a little bite and it should still have the distinct flavour and aroma of leek.
3. Add some black pepper.
4. Preheat the oven to 220 °C or 430 °F.
5. Heat a small non-stick pan and quickly colour the scallops.
6. Add some of the leek mixture to the shell.
7. Place the scallops on top.
8. Add grated cheese.
9. Transfer to the oven and serve when the cheese has melted, probably after three minutes.

What You Need (Classic Gratin)

• Scallops
• Shallot
• Double Cream
• Breadcrumbs
• Butter
• White Wine
• All Purpose Flour
• Black Pepper

What You Do

The idea is to make a sauce, combine the sauce with the scallops, top with breadcrumbs and grill until golden. Alternative ingredients include fish fumet, parsley, cheese and mushrooms. If you coarsely chop the scallops, then the scallops are more evenly spread in the sauce. 

1. Fry the scallops quickly in a hot pan with olive oil, just to give them extra flavour and colour.
2. Set the scallops aside, reduce heat, add finely chopped shallot to the pan and glaze.
3. Add some butter and flour to the pan; make a roux.
4. Add white wine, let reduce a bit, add cream.
5. If the sauce is too thick then add some liquid.
6. Add some black pepper.
7. Place the scallop(s) in a shell, add sauce and top with breadcrumbs.
8. Grill for three minutes or until golden.

PS

Yes, we serve our scallops with roe. Why discard it? The roe is flavourful and brings another texture to the combination.
Other very tasty recipes: scallops with cauliflower or with potatoes and truffle.