Shiitake and Lion’s Mane with Udon

The combination of Lion’s Mane and Shiitake brings lots of umami. It pairs wonderfully with the aromatic ginger, the udon and the soy sauce. The Lion’s Mane is fried and slightly crispy. The overall flavour of the dish is long and complex. The Shiitake is essential in the sauce and the fried Lion’s Mane brings depth and texture. Simple and delicious!

Udon is very popular in Japan and Korea. It’s made with wheat flour, water and salt. It can be served hot or cold. Different from Italian pasta, you don’t need to add salt to the cooking water. Furthermore the noodle has to be rinsed with cold water before using it in a dish, which is an absolute no-go in Italian cuisine.

Wine Pairing

The obvious choice would be a white wine, one with some floral notes and sweetness. However, the taste of the fried lion’s mane allows you to serve a red wine. We enjoyed a glass of Bardolino, made by Monte del Frà from Italy. The grapes used are Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. It is a well-balanced, vibrant red wine with lots of fruit and a hint of spices. Medium acidity.
In general, you’re looking for a refreshing red wine with lots of fruit that should be served slightly chilled (15°C – 17°C  or 59°F – 63°F).

What You Need
  • 75 grams of Shiitake
  • 75 grams of Lion’s Mane
  • 1 bunch of Udon (90 grams)
  • 2 cm fresh Ginger
  • 2 teaspoons of Soy Sauce (reduced salt)
  • 1 teaspoon of Oyster Sauce
  • Vegetable Stock
  • 1 tablespoon of (Marukin) Concentrated Dashi Stock
  • 2 teaspoons of Sesame Oil
  • (Olive) Oil
  • Black Pepper
What You Do
  1. Clean the shiitake with kitchen paper and remove the stems
  2. Slice the shiitake
  3. Clean the lion’s mane by removing discoloured and/or soft parts
  4. Slice the lion’s mane (1 cm or 0.5 in)
  5. Peel the ginger and chop finely
  6. Cook the udon according to the instruction on the package in boiling water (no salt needed)
  7. Heat a heavy iron pan, add some oil and fry the shiitake, reduce heat
  8. Add ginger
  9. After a few minutes add vegetable stock, soy sauce, oyster sauce and concentrated dashi stock to the pan with the shiitake
  10. Add oil to a second heavy iron skillet and fry the lion’s mane until golden
  11. When the udon is ready, drain and rinse thoroughly with cold water
  12. Add the udon to the pan with the shiitake and the sauce, combine and adjusts
  13. Perhaps you need to add some extra vegetable stock
  14. Warm through and through
  15. Add black pepper
  16. Taste and adjust
  17. Just before serving add some sesame oil
  18. Plate up and serve the lion’s mane on top of the dish
PS

We love using Marukin Concentrated Dashi Stock in combination with udon and mushrooms. You can make your own by adding some mirin and soy sauce to a cup of strong dashi.

Shiitake and Lion's Mane with Udon ©cadwu made with ginger, soy sauce, dashi, mirin and sesame oil
Shiitake and Lion’s Mane with Udon ©cadwu

Zhug

A few weeks ago Gido and Lien, owners of the now closed vegetarian restaurant Betty’s in Amsterdam, mailed us a recipe for Zhoug (also known as Zhug, Skhug or Schug), a hot sauce from Yemen. It combines cilantro, parsley, red or green peppers and various spices. Lien and Gido use a combination of spices known as Serinissima, produced by the French company Roellinger. Not something we have in our cupboard, so we used the ingredients as mentioned by Roellinger.

Zhug is spicy, bold, bright and intense. We enjoyed Zhug with crusted bread. We could imagine it’s also very tasty with falafel, grilled fish, oven roasted vegetables or fresh tomatoes.

What You Need
  • 30 grams of fresh Cilantro
  • 15 grams of fresh Parsley (leaves only)
  • Excellent Olive Oil
  • 1 small clove of Garlic
  • ½ Jalapeño
  • 2 teaspoons in total of
    • Clove
    • Ginger Powder
    • Melegueta Pepper (Grains of Paradise)
    • Saffron
    • Cumin
  • Black Pepper to taste
  • ½ teaspoon of Salt
  • Lemon Juice to taste
What You Do
  1. Grate the cloves, ground the Melegueate pepper and the cumin
  2. Combine grated clove, grounded pepper, ginger powder, saffron and grounded cumin
  3. Coarsely chop the garlic and the jalapeño. For a less spicy zhug remove seeds and membrane
  4. Add all ingredients, except the lemon juice and the olive oil to a kitchen aid or food processor
  5. Add olive oil
  6. Pulse to make a pesto-like substance
  7. Add some lemon juice to taste
  8. Pulse until it has a consistency you like
  9. Transfer to a glass jar, add some olive oil on top
  10. We prefer to enjoy zhug the next day

Summer Truffle and Golden Chanterelle

It’s always a great idea to combine seasonal ingredients: asparagus and morels, strawberries and rhubarb, summer truffle and golden chanterelle.
The season of the chanterelle runs from June to December. It’s a firm, bright yellow mushroom with subtle earthy, fruity flavour. It’s native to North America, Europe and Asia.
Summer truffles can be found between May and August. Their aroma and taste is very subtle. If slightly warmed, the flavour is more present (a bit nutty). If heated, the truffle loses its flavour.

The combination of chanterelle, truffle and cream is elegant and complex. The chanterelle gains depth from the truffle and vice versa. The pasta and the creamy sauce support the flavours beautifully.

Wine Pairing

We suggest a fruity, dry, red wine, with light tannins, for instance a Pinot Noir or perhaps a Gamay. We enjoyed a glass of Domaine Coudoulet Pinot Noir. This is a light, red wine from the Pays d’Oc in the south of France. It has a nice, light colour, aromas of strawberries, it’s refreshing and has a long finish. To be served somewhat chilled.

What You Need
  • 200 grams of Golden (Yellow) Chanterelle
  • 20 grams of Summer Truffle
  • 1 Garlic Clove
  • Stock (vegetable or chicken)
  • Cream
  • 1 teaspoon of Mustard
  • Parmesan Cheese
  • Spaghetti 
  • Olive Oil
  • Butter
  • Black Pepper
  • Salt
What You Do
  1. Add olive oil to a heavy iron skillet. Set on low heat
  2. Slice the garlic in 3 or 4 and add to the oil
  3. Leave the oil on very low heat for 10-15 minutes
  4. Clean the chanterelle with a brush. Take your time!
  5. Cut the chanterelle in 2 or 4, depending on the size
  6. Clean the truffle
  7. Grate a quarter of the truffle, slice the remainder
  8. Grate some Parmesan cheese, just to thicken and gently flavour the sauce
  9. Cook the spaghetti in boiling water with some salt until al dente, according to the instruction on the package
  10. Remove the garlic from the pan
  11. Add some butter to the pan and increase the heat
  12. Fry the chanterelle
  13. Reduce heat
  14. Add stock, mustard and cream. Combine
  15. Add Parmesan cheese. Combine
  16. Add the spaghetti to the pan
  17. Taste and adjust
  18. Just before serving add black pepper and grated truffle
  19. Combine and serve
  20. Decorate with the summer truffle slices 

Eggs with Mayonnaise

Œufs Dur Mayonnaise is a classic French bistro dish. Beginning of the 20th century the instruction was simple: make mayonnaise (egg yolk, white wine vinegar, oil, salt and white pepper), quarter or halve hard boiled eggs and place these on a layer of mayonnaise.
Today’s versions use mayonnaise with mustard. Delia Smith adds garlic to her mayonnaise.
Presentation-wise the eggs are topped with mayonnaise and served with lettuce, cornichons or olives. Another possibility is to serve the halved eggs as a dome, covered with mayonnaise.

Œufs Dur Mayonnaise may look simple, and perhaps you think it’s too simple to be a starter on its own. It’s actually very nice, if you use quality ingredients and make your own mayonnaise. Its simplicity doesn’t allow you to cheat (boil the eggs days in advance, overcook them, use cheap eggs, use ready made mayonnaise etcetera).

Today’s recipes suggest leaving the egg yolk slightly creamy. After having tried a number of cuissons (donenesses if that’s a word!) we think it’s best to use hard boiled eggs. We rely on our Emerio egg cooker to create the perfect egg!

Drink Pairing

The taste of Œufs Dur Mayonnaise is savoury, mineral and rich. The mayonnaise gives a velvety mouthfeel. As this is a classic bistro dish, we suggest a simple white wine, nicely cooled, or a beer, or a glass of cold water.

What You Need
  • fresh, organic Eggs
  • Mayonnaise
  • (optional) Chervil
What You Do
  1. Prepare mayonnaise. We suggest adding a bit more mustard and vinegar than usual
  2. Prepare hard boiled eggs
  3. Peel the eggs and let cool
  4. Halve the eggs and add some mayonnaise on top
  5. (optional) decorate with chervil
PS

The number of bistro’s in France went down from some 170.000 in the 1960’s to 35.000 in the 2020’s. Œufs Dur Mayonnaise became unpopular: eggs contain a high amount of cholesterol and mayonnaise is high-fat food and calorie-dense. In 2018 L’Association pour la Sauvegarde de l’Œuf Mayonnaise (the association to protect Œuf Mayonnaise) was founded, to promote the dish and bring it back to the table. The Association organises an annual championship. The 2026 winner of the award was restaurant Au Rêve in Paris (Œufs Mayonnaise is on the menu for 4 euro).

Eggs with Mayonnaise ©cadwu also known as Oeuf Mayonnaise is made with excellent organic eggs and home made mayonnaise.
Eggs with Mayonnaise ©cadwu

Salade Piémontaise

In the 1860’s Lucien Olivier was chef of the restaurant Hermitage in Moscow. The restaurant served a dish with luxurious ingredients, such as pheasant, caviar, lobster, tongue, potatoes, pickles and lettuce with a sauce, perhaps sauce Provençal. These ingredients were served separately on one plate. One evening some of the guests combined the ingredients into one dish, which was not the intention of chef Olivier, but when he tasted it, he found that the blend worked very well. He improved the sauce by adding one or more secret ingredients and the Olivier Salad was born!
It quickly became a very popular dish at the restaurant.

Sadly the recipe for the original Olivier Salad is not known. One of his sous chefs, Ivan Ivanov, wrote down what he thought was the recipe (without the secret ingredients, obviously), became head chef at another restaurant and sold the recipe to various publishers. It became known as Russian Salad. As more often, the popular version is made with less expensive ingredients, such as ham, chicken, carrots, green peas and mayonnaise.

In 1909 Tsar Nicholas II visited King Victor Emmanuel III in Racconigi, some 35 kilometres south of Turin. Russian chefs explained to their Italian colleagues how to prepare Russian salad. The Italian chefs used vegetables from the royal gardens such as carrots, peas, beans and potatoes (which we think is a bit odd given the luxurious ingredients of the original). The salad was decorated with cream to evoke the snow of the Russian steppes. It became very popular in the Savoy region, a region that included the Principality of Piedmont and the County of Nice, among others. In the south of France it is known as Salade Piémontaise.

The anecdote about the creation of the Olivier Salad seems credible, but is it? The second edition of The Modern Cook by Charles Elmé Francatelli (chef to Queen Victoria) was published in 1846. Recipe number 1215 is for…. Russian Salad! It is made with lobster, thunny (‘tuna’ we think), anchovies, crayfish, prawn tails, stuffed olives, capers and red mayonnaise (a combination of lobster coral, mayonnaise, cayenne pepper and mustard), to be served in a vegetable border (made with cauliflower, asparagus, beans, peas, potatoes, artichoke bottoms and aspic).
Two great chefs think alike?

We can’t recreate the Olivier Salad, but we can follow Francatelli’s instructions and make an original Russian salad.
Anyone?

Our version of the Salade Piémontaise is based on the salad as sold by the Boucherie de France in Nice. It’s a surprisingly light dish that allows you to enjoy all ingredients, thanks to the lemon juice and the fairly neutral mayonnaise.

Wine Pairing

Piemonte is well known for its great wines, such as Barolo and Barbaresco, both made with Nebbiolo grapes. We decided to go for a more simple wine from the region, produced by Fontanafredda and made with 100% Barbera grapes. A wine that is fruity (black berries, plums) with low tannins and a relatively high acidity, which is very nice with the salad.

What You Need
  • 250 grams of Potatoes
  • 125 grams of Ham (one slice)
  • 200 grams of ripe, excellent Tomatoes
  • 1 organic Egg
  • 10 Cornichons
  • Black Pepper
  • Lemon Juice
  • Mayonnaise
What You Do
  1. Steam the potatoes, let cool, peel and dice
  2. Dice the ham
  3. De-seed the tomatoes and slice, same size as the potatoes and the ham
  4. Steam or boil the egg, let cool and dice
  5. Slice the cornichons
  6. Combine the ingredients
  7. Coat with mayonnaise and mix gently
  8. Add lemon juice, black pepper and adjust
  9. Leave in the refrigerator until cool
  10. Serve with crusted bread
PS

In 1852 Francatelli published A Plain Cookery Book for the Working Classes to help poorer members of society. The book contains 241 recipes with inexpensive ingredients. Not just royalty and exclusivity for him!

Salade Piémontaise ©cadwu made with tomatoes, potatoes, gherkins, egg, ham, lemon juice, black pepper and home made mayonnaise
Salade Piémontaise ©cadwu

Mayonnaise

Over the years we wrote about a range of sauces, from very classic Béchamel to intriguing sauces like Kimizu and Cameline. But for some reason we never wrote about mayonnaise!
The average Dutch person consumes some 2.2 kilo of mayonnaise per year, same for the US. These figures are based on mayonnaise produced by companies like Hellmann, Kraft, Heinz and many others. They all claim to produce ‘real mayonnaise’.

The historical back ground of mayonnaise is full of anecdotes as you would expect. Its origin could be a sauce  from from Bayon (France, Bayonaise), or from Mahón (Spain, Mahónaise) or perhaps it goes back to aioli (another sauce we need to write about!).

In 1828 Antonin Carême published a recipe for magnonaisse in his book Le Cuisinier Parisien, ou l’Art de la Cuisine Française au Dix-Neuvième Siècle. He describes three methods for making the sauce. The first combines two egg yolks, tarragon vinegar, oil (from Aix en Provence), salt and white pepper. Interestingly he suggests making the sauce in a terrine on crushed ice. He also describes what to do if the sauce splits: put a spoonful of cold béchamel with an egg yolk in a bowl, plus a spoonful of the magnonnaise (with the wooden spoon), and you stir this mixture vigorously, which becomes smooth and velvety. You mix in part, the magnonnaise, which by this work becomes again what it was at first.

Mayonnaise is an emulsified combination of egg yolk, oil, vinegar, salt and white pepper. Adding a teaspoon of mustard kickstarts the emulsification. The recipe below is for a neutral mayonnaise. It is velvety, soft and creamy with a subtle, pure flavour. It’s easy to adjust to your taste or to the dish you want to use it for.

We use a hand (immersion) blender to make our mayonnaise. The cup must be slightly larger than the head of the blender. For some reason you have to use a whole egg. We tried it with egg yolk only, which didn’t work.

What You Need
  • 1 organic Egg
  • 1,5 teaspoon of Mustard
  • 3 teaspoons of White Wine Vinegar
  • pinch of Salt
  • 300 ml Oil, for instance Rapeseed Oil or Canola Oil
  • White Pepper
What You Do
  1. All ingredients must be at room temperature
  2. Add egg, mustard, white wine vinegar and salt to the cup
  3. Gentle pour the oil on top
  4. Lower the blender into the cup
  5. Place the head of the blender against the bottom of the cup
  6. Start at the bottom on medium speed
  7. Move the blender upwards, very slowly, this may take 30 – 60 seconds
  8. You may want to increase the speed, going upwards
  9. When ready, put the mayonnaise to a bowl and transfer to the refrigerator
  10. The mayonnaise will last for 3 – 7 days, provided you use fresh ingredients and you store it at 4 °C (40 °F) or lower. However we suggest eating it within one or two days, because it’s so very tasty!
PS

Hellmann’s original mayonnaise also contains water, sugar, flavourings, paprika extract and antioxidant; Heinz Seriously Good Mayonnaise also contains water, sugar and spice. Kraft’s Real Mayo also contains water, sugar, dried garlic, dried onion, paprika and natural flavor. If you want real mayonnaise, simply make your own!

Mayonnaise ©cadwu made with oil, white wine vinegar, white pepper, one organic egg and mustard, using a (immersion) hand blender
Mayonnaise ©cadwu

Pea and Mint Soup

We love refreshing chilled soups during summer. Could be gazpacho, could be avocado and cucumber soup or this classic. It’s delicious and uplifting when it’s really warm. Serve with crusted bread for a lovely, light starter.

What You Need
  • 1 small Shallot
  • 1 clove of Garlic
  • 400 ml of Vegetable Stock
  • 175 grams of (frozen) Peas
  • handful of fresh Mint
  • Lemon Juice
  • Black Pepper
  • 2 tablespoons of Cream
  • Olive Oil
What You Do
  1. Chop the shallot, the garlic and the mint
  2. Heat the oil in a large pan
  3. Add shallot to the pan and glaze for a few minutes
  4. Add garlic to the pan and gently sauté for one or two minutes
  5. Pour in the stock and bring to the boil
  6. Add peas and reduce heat
  7. Leave for a few minutes until the peas are relatively soft
  8. Add mint and cream
  9. Allow to simmer for one or two minutes
  10. Add some lemon juice and black pepper
  11. Hand blender until smooth
  12. Taste and adjust (mint, lemon juice, black pepper)
  13. Pour into a large bowl and allow to cool
  14. Cover and chill in the refrigerator for three or more hours
  15. Spoon the soup into cold soup bowls and decorate with a sprig of mint
PS
  • Don’t overcook the peas. If you do, the soup will become too smooth and it will not be bright green.
  • You could add some olive oil just before serving and pulse with a hand blender. This will give the soup a velvety, rich feel plus it will make the taste more complex.
Pea and Mint Soup ©cadwu with lemon juice, vegetable stock, shallot, garlic and cream, to be served cold
Pea and Mint Soup ©cadwu

Asparagus Salad with Basil and Olives

We wanted to celebrate the end of the Dutch season for white asparagus with something special, perhaps grilled asparagus with Parmesan cheese or asparagus with miso. Normally the season ends on June 24th, the feast day of Saint John the Baptist. This year the season started very early (March 7th) and probably ended early, so we were too late. No final dish with white asparagus this year!

We decided to prepare a very tasty salad with green asparagus, oregano, basil and black olives. A very limited list of ingredients, but there is no need to add anything else. The olives bring umami, the asparagus sweetness and bitterness, the basil and oregano are aromatic, sweet and a touch peppery. A very uplifting combination.

Wine Pairing

We enjoyed a glass of Verdicchio, a dry white wine made by Tenuta Colpaola in Italy. The wine has a very nice balance of fruit (green apples) and acidity, body and freshness. The wine has a beautiful, deep yellow colour, medium body and complexity, making it ideal with the various flavours of the dish.
In general we suggest a dry white wine with sufficient acidity and character, to balance both the asparagus and the olives.
You could also serve the salad with a glass of dry, crisp, floral and flavourful rosé, for instance Monte del Frà Bardolino Chiaretto. It has delicate aromas of berries accompanied by light and refreshing hints of green apples and subtle spicy tones. The refreshing acidity works very well with the salad as a whole.

What You Need
  • 350 grams of Green Asparagus
  • 10-15 Black Olives (Taggiasca preffered, pitted)
  • 1 generous teaspoon of Dried Oregano
  • Basil
  • Black Pepper
  • Olive Oil
What You Do
  1. Pre-heat your oven to 190 °C or 375 °F
  2. Wash the asparagus and dry
  3. Remove the bottom of the asparagus. Be generous, you don’t want to serve a chewy salad
  4. Halve the olives
  5. Slice the asparagus (chunky)
  6. Add asparagus, dried oregago and olives to a (cast iron) oven dish
  7. Add olive oil, be generous!, and combine
  8. Transfer to the oven
  9. After 10 minutes mix
  10. Leave in the oven for another 10 minutes
  11. Transfer to the kitchen top and let cool
  12. Leave in the refrigerator until ready to serve
  13. Just before serving add lots of basil
  14. Add black pepper to taste
Salad with Green Asparagus ©cadwu and black olives, oregano and excellent olive oil
Salad with Green Asparagus ©cadwu

Clafoutis

Cherries, cherries, cherries! We love their rich, sweet taste, the touch of tartness and their firm, succulent texture! They just want to be eaten, one after the other. So what better summer dessert than Clafoutis?

Should you use whole cherries or pitted ones? Not removing the pits is less work for you (obviously) and it reduces the risk of a soggy Clafoutis. Unpitted cherries will give a subtle almond flavour to the clafoutis. On the other hand, you don’t want to bite into a pit while enjoying your dessert. Also important: the pits contain amygdalin, a toxic compound that can also be found in almonds, apple seeds and apricot stones.
We decided to pit the cherries and compensate for the lack of almond taste by adding some almond flour to the batter.
If you decide to remove the pits, make sure you remove all of them!

Finally, yes, you can replace the cherries with fresh apricots, berries, peaches or prunes. The result is called a Flaugnarde. But nothing as tasty as Clafoutis made with fresh cherries!

What You Need
  • 2,5 dl of regular Milk
  • 2 Eggs
  • 30 grams of plain Flour
  • 10 grams of Almond Flour
  • 20 grams of Sugar
  • 500 grams of Cherries, pitted
  • 10 grams of Butter
What You Do
  1. Pre heat the oven to 180° Celsius or 350° Fahrenheit
  2. Whisk together the eggs, plain flour, almond flour and sugar
  3. Bring the milk almost to a boil
  4. Stir the milk into the mixture
  5. Butter a large, shallow baking dish, add cherries to the dish
  6. Make sure the bottom is nicely covered with cherries; no need to have two layers of cherries
  7. Pour the mixture over the cherries
  8. Bake (lower third of the oven) for 20 minutes
  9. Add a few dots of butter
  10. Continue baking for another 20 minutes or until the Clafoutis is golden
  11. Leave to cool for 60 minutes or so, this will enhance the taste
  12. Clafoutis should be served luke-warm
  13. You could decorate the clafoutis with icing sugar
Clafoutis ©cadwu made with fresh cherries, milk, sugar, all purpose flour, butter and almond flour
Clafoutis ©cadwu

Garlic Soup

A few weeks ago John Rieber wrote about the miracle of garlic. He also explains the 10-minute rule and the way it creates additional benefits when using garlic. His post includes a recipe for a garlicky soup, a variation of Avgolemono.

The post made us think of ‘knofsoep’ (in English it would be ‘garsoup’) as described by author, poet and performer Johnny Van Doorn in 1988. He was known for his ecstatic performances, enabled by the use of various substances. His knofsoep, based on a recipe from Roman times, helped him through the day. The soup is uplifting, supports overall health and more specifically the liver. It is to be served with crusted bread and a glass of wine.
We adjusted the recipe slightly by using vegetable stock and adding some chives. The soup has a very mild, sweet garlic flavour (thanks to not roasting or frying the garlic) and complexity thanks to the herbs and the clove.

The original recipe (in Dutch) is available in his diary Door de Weken Heen, available for 5 euros, second hand only.

What You Need
  • 500 ml Vegetable Stock
  • 8 cloves of Garlic
  • 1 starchy Potato
  • Olive Oil
  • Bouquet Garni (Thyme, Sage, Rosemary, Parsley, Bay Leaf)
  • 1 Clove
  • 2 crushed Black Peppers
  • Parmesan Cheese
  • Chives
  • (optional) Black Pepper
  • (optional) Salt
What You Do
  1. Bring the stock to a boil
  2. Add garlic and potato
  3. Reduce the heat
  4. Add a small tablespoon of olive oil
  5. Add bouquet garni, clove and crushed black peppers
  6. After 40 minutes pass the soup through a sieve
  7. Use a spoon to capture all the flavours of the ingredients
  8. Reheat the soup
  9. Taste and adjust (salt, pepper)
  10. Garnish with Parmesan cheese and chives
Garlic Soup ©cadwu made with garlic, potatoes, clove, bouquet garni, vegetable stock and decorated with parmesan cheese and chives
Garlic Soup ©cadwu