Lamb Shank with Star Anise, Ginger and Djeroek Poeroet

The obvious way to prepare lamb shanks is to fry them briefly in oil en butter and then cook them for hours in red wine with a bouguet garni of rosemary, thyme, parsley, sage and perhaps lavender. Maybe add a small tomato to help the sauce. We take a different approach by adding strong flavors like ginger, cilantro seeds, star anise, soy sauce and the leaves of the Makrut or Thai lime (also known as Djeroek Poeroet or Djeruk Purut). You will get a full, complex sauce in combination with tasty, juicy, tender and aromatic meat.

Wine Pairing

The obvious choice would be a glass of Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris. We once enjoyed the dish with a glass of Gewurztraminer from the Alsace. A touch of spiciness and sweetness, which worked really well with the star anise and ginger.
Combining the lamb shanks with red wine is more challenging. Our choice was a bottle of Cuvée Equinoxe produced by Domaine d’Arjolle, from the Languedoc region in France. The wine is made with 100% merlot grapes. It has an intense ruby ​​color and aromas of red fruit. The flavour is soft and long, with a touch of sweetness and oak. A soft, not too complex Syrah could also be very nice with the lamb shanks.

What You Need
  • 2 Lamb Shanks
  • Shallot
  • Olive oil
  • Fresh Ginger (4 cm, depending on your taste)
  • 1/2 red Chili
  • 2 Garlic Cloves
  • Noilly Prat
  • teaspoon of Cilantro Seeds
  • 2 Star Anise
  • Low Salt Soy Sauce
  • 6 leaves of Djeroek Poeroet
What You Do

Fry the meat in olive oil, giving it a nice colour. In the mean time cut the shallot, peel the ginger and slice, remove the seeds from the chili and cut the garlic clove (but not too fine). Remove the meat from the pan and glaze the shallot, chili, ginger and garlic. Add the Noilly Prat, crushed cilantro seeds, star anise, some low-salt soy sauce and the djeroek poeroet. Stir. Transfer the meat back to the pan and add some water, perhaps 3 cm. Leave to simmer for 4 – 6 hours in total. Check the pan every hour and add water if so required. After 6 hours remove the shanks from the sauce and cool. Reduce the sauce, let cool and transfer to the refrigerator. The following day remove as much of the fat from the sauce as possible. Warm the sauce together with the shanks, check taste and tenderness.
Serve with steamed Bok Choy tossed with sesame oil or with rice.

Lamb Shank ©cadwu
Lamb Shank ©cadwu

Palmiers au Fromage

It’s Friday evening, friends are coming over for dinner, a nice bottle of crémant d’Alsace is waiting to be opened, you switch on your oven, slice the dough and transfer the slices to the oven. An hour or so later you serve a glass of crémant, accompanied by crispy, lukewarm, aromatic Palmiers au Fromage. Aren’t they lovely?

What You Need
  • Puff Pastry
  • 50 grams of Butter
  • 25 grams of very, very old cheese
  • (optional) Black Pepper and Mustard
What You Do

We used three sheets (12* 12 cm) of puff pastry. Combine the sheets into one by folding the dough. You want to keep the layered structure of the puff pastry. Transfer to the refrigerator for 30 minutes or so. In the meantime, combine 50 grams of very soft butter with 25 grams of finely grated very old cheese until it’s fluffy and creamy. This may take some time! Taste and decide if you want to add more cheese, mustard and/or black pepper.
Dust your work top with flour, roll out the dough, size 12 by 36 cm. Used a brush to coat the dough with the butter mixture. Pick up the left short side of the dough and fold until halfway. Do the same with the right size. It should now be 12 by approximately 18 cm. Repeat. Probably you can’t repeat it after having folded the dough twice. If you think you can, please do so. Now brush halve the dough and fold. The result looks like a 12-cm-long sausage. Wrap in plastic foil, transfer to the refrigerator and let cool through and through.
Preheat your oven to 200 °C or 390 °F. Use a sharp knife to slice the dough-sausage, 0.5 cm is perfect. Cover a baking tray with parchment (baking) paper and bake the Palmiers au Fromage for 10 – 15 minutes or until golden-brown.

Palmiers ©cadwu
Palmiers ©cadwu

Paillasson with Pied de Mouton

Going through our list of mushroom recipes, we noticed we didn’t have one with Pied de Mouton. Very odd! The taste of this firm mushroom is a bit sweet, nutty and mild. The mushroom is slightly dry and tends to absorb flavours and juices of other ingredients.
The season of the Pied de Mouton begins in August and continues until January, sometimes even March. A very affordable and tasty wild mushroom that keeps very well in your refrigerator. Very nice in a creamy pasta dish, with a meat ragoût or in a casserole with vegetables and lentils.
We decided to add them to a Paillasson de Pommes de Terre, which is similar to the Galette de Pommes de Terre, the Reibekuche in Germany and the Rösti in Switzerland. Ingredients vary per country, per region. Inspired by the Potato paillasse with sage and young garlic by Alain Passard, we decided to keep things simple and tasty.

Wine Pairing

The Paillasson with Pied de Mouton is creamy, moist, rich and aromatic. We think it’s best with a fruity, non-oaked red wine, for instance a Pinot Noir or a Merlot. Not too complex!

What You Need
  • 250 grams of Potatoes (waxy)
  • 200 grams of Pied de Mouton
  • 15 grams of Pancetta (Bacon)
  • Butter
  • Olive Oil
  • Rosemary
  • 2 cloves of Garlic
  • Black Pepper
What You Do

Heat a small non-stick pan. Dice the pancetta and fry in olive oil. Remove and set aside. Use a brush to clean the mushrooms. Dice. Fry the mushrooms for 5 minutes. Add finely chopped garlic and finely chopped rosemary. Remove and set aside. Add some black pepper. Grate the potatoes, add black pepper and combine with the mushrooms and the pancetta. Add a generous amount of butter to the pan. Fry the paillasson for 10 minutes, flip, and fry for another 10 minutes, depending on the thickness. We decided to go for 15+10.

PS

The easiest way to flip the paillasson is to let it slide from the pan on a cutting board. Cover the paillasson with the pan, turn the board and the pan and you’re done.

Quiche with Bay Boletes

Bay Boletes are often compared to cèpes (penny bun). Both have a slightly nutty taste and are aromatic. The texture of a bay bolete is a bit softer, smoother and moister. It’s a very common mushroom in Europe, China, Mexico and North America. Sadly, this very tasty, not expensive bolete is hard to find in shops and on markets. If you see them, make sure to buy them immediately. They are great when combined with stronger flavours, in this case with Emmentaler and thyme.

Quiche Lorraine is made with pâte brisée, or shortcrust pastry. The result is a flaky, crumbly crust. Sounds ideal, but we prefer to add some egg to the dough (also known as pâte à foncer). The result is a slightly firmer crust, still crumbly, very tasty and beautiful golden.

The filling of a traditional Quiche Lorraine is a combination of whisked egg, crème fraîche, (optional) milk, lardons (bacon), nutmeg, salt and pepper. The combination of eggs and crème fraîche works very well, also in our quiche.

Wine Pairing

We decided to open a bottle of South African red wine, produced by Kruger, their 2022 Pinot Noir Pearly Gates – Upper Hemel en Aarde. The wine has aromas like dark cherry and a touch of smokiness. The colour is light, pale ruby and the flavour is dry, complex and long. It worked very well the aromatic quiche. In general, we would suggest a gently oaked pinot noir, with some dark fruit and sufficient complexity.

What You Need
  • For the Crust
    • 100 grams Plain Flour
    • 50 grams of cold Butter
    • 12,5 grams of whisked Egg
    • 12,5 grams of cold Water
    • pinch of Salt
  • For the Filling
    • 200 grams of Bay Boletes
    • 2 whisked Eggs (minus 12,5 grams)
    • Crème Fraîche
    • Emmentaler or Gruyère
    • Thyme
    • Olive Oil
    • 2 Cloves of Garlic
    • Black Pepper
What You Do

Dice the cold butter and combine it with flour and salt. Rub the butter in gently with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the egg, continue, then add the cold water. It’s ready when the pastry comes together in a ball and doesn’t stick to the surface. Transfer to the refrigerator and leave for 30 minutes.
Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface and use it to line a 14 cm (8 inch) loose-bottomed flan tin. Best is 2 millimetres. Prick the pastry with a fork, to prevent air bubbles forming during baking. Transfer to the refrigerator and leave for 30 minutes.
Now it’s time to clean the mushrooms using kitchen paper. Slice. The stems can be a bit unattractive, so we tend to discard them. Fry the mushrooms is a heavy iron skillet in olive oil. Reduce the heat and allow to cook for 5 minutes before adding the chopped garlic and thyme. Leave for 5 more minutes, add black pepper and allow to cool. Combine whisked egg and crème fraîche until it’s a creamy mixture. Add some grated Emmentaler or Gruyere, not too much. Add black pepper and mix.
Preheat the oven to 180 °C or 355 °F.
Add the mushrooms to the pastry case and spread evenly. Pour the mixture in the case, transfer to the oven for 25 – 30 minutes until golden and just set. Serve lukewarm.

PS

You could bake the quiche double-blind, but it’s not necessary.

The Art of Sauces: Green Sauce with Quails and Snails

Many years ago we were looking for a nice restaurant in Fréjus. It was our last evening in France before returning home and obviously we were looking for something special, something typical Provençal. The area of our hotel wasn’t very promising, so we were ready to settle for pizza until we saw a small restaurant with a very interesting menu. It offered Tisane de Romarin, Cailles et Escargots and many other exciting dishes we unfortunately forgot. We entered the restaurant and had a perfect evening.
Combining quails and snails isn’t the most obvious idea, but rest assured, it works beautifully, also thanks to the very intriguing green sauce. It took us some time to recreate it, but after a few attempts we think this is the right version.
The question remains why the two go together well. Is it about fat (quails leg) and no-fat (snail)? Because both are meaty and tender? Because both love the tarragon in the sauce?
Of course, we made a note of the name of the restaurant and of course, we lost it. A pity, although preparing this dish brings us back to a lovely evening in Fréjus.

Wine Pairing

Enjoy your Green Sauce with Quails and Snails with a glass of Chardonnay with a touch of oak. The wine must be dry, mineral and medium bodied. We enjoyed a glass of Bourgogne Couvent des Jacobins as produced by Louis Jadot. The wine partly matured in stainless steel tanks and partly in oak barrels. The result is a wine that has citrus and apple aromas in combination with oak and vanilla. Great with the freshness of the herbs and the richness of the sauce. It balances very well with both the quails and the snails.

What You Need
  • 6 Quail Legs
  • Butter
  • 12 Snails (click here when you want to know which snail to buy)
  • For the Green Sauce
    • 1 Bunch of Parsley
    • 1/4 Bunch of Tarragon
    • Chicken Stock
    • Cream
    • (optional) Beurre Manié or Potato Starch)
  • Black Pepper
What You Do
  1. Wash the snails with plenty of water and set aside
  2. Warm a heavy iron skillet
  3. Warm some chicken or quail stock in a pan and bring a pan with water to the boil
  4. Set your oven to 60 °C or 140 °F.
  5. Now it’s time to make the Green Sauce
    • Blanch parsley and tarragon in boiling water for 30 seconds and cool immediately in ice water
    • Dry
    • Blender the herbs with some cold stock until you have a very smooth green liquid
    • Set your blender to turbo!
    • Pass through a fine sieve and store the chlorophyll. It will remain stable for at least a day
  6. Quickly fry the legs in butter
  7. Warm the snails in some chicken stock
  8. When both are ready, transfer the legs and the snails to the warm oven
  9. Add chicken stock to the pan and deglaze
  10. Add cream to the pan
  11. Let reduce for 5-10 minutes or until you’re happy with the consistency
  12. Add chlorophyll until you have the right colour and flavour
  13. Be very careful, if you overheat the sauce it will lose its vibrant green colour
  14. Perhaps you need to thicken the sauce with Beurre Manié or Potato Starch
  15. Add black pepper and taste
  16. Serve the legs and the snails in the sauce
  17. Enjoy with crusted bread
Green Sauce ©cadwu
Green Sauce ©cadwu
PS

You could also use two quails. Remove the breasts and the legs. Use the remainder to make the stock you need for the sauce. To make the dish more refined, remove the main bone of the legs.

Sandwiched Parasol Mushrooms

In 2005 Antonio Carluccio published The Quiet Hunt, the Complete Mushroom Book. In this book he describes various mushrooms, discusses their habitat and edibility and of course offers a range of mushroom recipes. Recently we were at a second-hand bookstore, and we spotted La Passion des Champignons. We assumed that this was the French version of The Quiet Hunt, but surprisingly it wasn’t! The original of this book is called A Passion for Mushrooms and was published in 1989. We obviously expected some overlap between the two, but since we saw several new recipes, we decided to buy it. As soon as we were at home, we compared the two books. In a Passion for Mushrooms, you will also find descriptions of various mushrooms plus a range of mushroom recipes. The overlap however is minimal. A Passion for Mushrooms includes some wonderful recipes and combinations we didn’t expect, for instance Filet de Bœuf aux Pleurotes et aux Chanterelles, Truite aux Pied Blues, Ragout de Crevettes Rose et de Morilles and Velouté d’Huitre aux Truffes. The book also includes a chapter on conservation techniques.

We prepared two dishes from the book, Sandwiched Parasol Mushrooms and Halibut with Saffron Milk Cap.

A Passion for Mushrooms is a must have for mushroom-lovers. The book is available via the usual channels and perhaps at your local second-hand bookstore. Prices will vary.

Sandwiched Mushrooms

The Parasol Mushroom is a common mushroom in many countries. It is very tasty and easy to prepare. It has a beautiful juicy and meaty texture, and its flavour is delicate with a touch of lemon. Simply fry the caps alla Milanese or stuff young parasol mushrooms with onion, sage or minced meat. Or in this case, with ham and cheese!
We liked the idea of sandwiching because it allows for a nice amount of stuffing and it keeps the mushroom intact. By frying the sandwiched parasol mushrooms in the oven, the mushrooms will become thin and crunchy. The flavour of the stuffing was more complex than we expected. The combination of ham, cheese and parsley worked very well. Be careful with the breadcrumbs, these are only needed to get the right consistency.

Wine Pairing

A Pinot Grigio from the Italian Alto Adige region will be a great accompaniment. In general, you’re looking for a white, fresh, dry, non oaked wine with floral notes.

What You Need
  • 4 Parasol Mushrooms or large Mushrooms (portabella)
  • Shallot
  • Garlic
  • Egg
  • Breadcrumbs
  • Gruyere or Emmenthaler
  • Parmesan Cheese
  • Ham
  • Parsley
  • Black Pepper
  • Olive Oil
What You Do

Details of the recipe can be found in A Passion for Mushrooms. Buy the book and enjoy this dish and many more!
Finely chop the shallot and fry in olive oil. Clean the mushroom and discard the stem (if using parasol mushrooms, otherwise chop the stems and fry with the shallot). Add finely chopped garlic to the pan. After a few minutes remove from the heat and allow to cool. Chop the ham and the parsley, grate the two cheeses. Whisk the egg, add cheeses, black pepper, parsley and ham. Add the shallot and garlic. Add breadcrumbs. Add half of the mixture on top of a cap and close with another slightly smaller cap. Add oil to a baking tray, add the two sets of mushrooms. Brush with olive oil, sprinkle with some breadcrumbs and then add a few drops of olive oil. Fry in the oven at 180 °C or 355 °F for 20 minutes.

Saffron Milk Cap with Eggplant and Potatoes

The Saffron Milk Cap is a popular mushroom in Spain, Portugal, Turkey, Scotland, Poland, Russia and many other countries. In Spain they are combined with garlic and parsley, in Turkey with spinach to make börek or used in a rich tomato stew and in Poland and Russia they are salted with herbs such as dill and caraway. We have prepared them with red bell peppers and chorizo and squid.
We love the flavour of the Saffron Milk Cap (mild, nutty, a touch peppery) and since they keep their texture when cooked we wanted to use them in a stew. We combined the mushrooms with egg plant and potatoes. It worked very well: the aromas and taste of the mushrooms with the slight bitterness of the egg plant and the generous flavour of the potatoes cooked in vegetable stock. During the cooking process the potatoes will become more yellow thanks to the Saffron Milk Cap. Beautiful, delicious (as in Lactarius Deliciosus) and uplifting.

Wine Pairing

We decided to enjoy a glass of Chardonnay, produced by Mont Clou, Spain. The wine has aged ‘sur lie’, which means that the wine remained in contact with (dead) yeast cells, grape skin and other remainders of the grapes. The effect of this way of ageing is that the wine will become more complex and more flavourful. Champagne is an example of a wine aged ‘sur lie’.
The chardonnay from Mont Clou has aromas of ripe fruit, pineapple perhaps? Its flavour is round, soft and a touch oaky. A very nice accompaniment of the stew. In general you’re looking for a medium bodied, fruity, white wine, preferably with some oak.

What You Need
  • 150 grams of Saffron Milk Cap
  • One small Shallot
  • One Garlic Clove
  • One Potato (waxy)
  • One small Egg Plant
  • Paprika (Powder)
  • Chilli Powder
  • 250 ml Vegetable Stock
  • Parsley
  • Olive Oil
  • Crusted Bread
What You Do
  1. Slice the eggplant and quarter each slice
  2. Wash the potato and quarter
  3. Clean the mushrooms and quarter
  4. You want the eggplant, potato and mushrooms chunks to be of similar size
  5. Chop the shallot and the garlic, not too fine
  6. Fry the eggplant in a non-stick pan with lots of olive oil until golden
  7. Set aside
  8. Glaze the shallot in a heavy iron skillet
  9. When ready, add the garlic
  10. Wait a few minutes, then add the mushroom
  11. Fry for a few minutes
  12. Add the potato and fry for another few minutes
  13. Add the paprika and chilli powder
  14. Make sure everything is coated with spices and olive oil
  15. Add the eggplant and the vegetable stock
  16. Allow to cook for 30 minutes or until the potato is ready
  17. You may want to add some water and mix, so check every 5 or 10 minutes
  18. Two minutes before serving add some chopped parsley
  19. Mix
  20. Serve with crusted bread.
PS

More mushroom recipes on our mushroom page.

Saffron Milk Cap with Eggplant and Potatoes ©cadwu
Saffron Milk Cap with Eggplant and Potatoes ©cadwu

Girolle and Guineafowl

The Girolle (or Chanterelle) season in Europe runs from late summer until late autumn. It’s a much-loved mushroom, especially the golden (common) girolle, but let’s not forget the chanterelle jaune, the chanterelle grise and the trompette de la mort. The common girolle remains tender and somewhat meaty when cooked, which makes it ideal when thinking of a rich sauce. You will taste delicate nutty, buttery and earthy flavours. Delicious when combined with the gentle flavours of guineafowl. The sauce we made is fairly simple: it’s all about enhancing the texture and the flavours of the mushroom. The parsley will bring a freshness and bitterness to the sauce.

Guineafowl meat is leaner, somewhat darker and more flavourful compared to chicken. It is not difficult to prepare, but due to the low-fat content you must be careful not to overcook. In this recipe we use guineafowl supreme (the breast fillet with the skin on plus the wing bone) which is perhaps the tastiest part of the guineafowl. 

Wine Pairing

We enjoyed a glass of Le Jardin de Fleur La Mothe made by Château Fleur la Mothe with merlot and cabernet sauvignon grapes. An affordable wine from the French Médoc region. The wine has a beautiful deep red colour, the tannins are balanced and the fruit nicely present, both in the aroma and the flavour. In general, we suggest a smooth, medium bodied red wine with fruity aromas. 

What You Need
  • For the Guineafowl
    • 2 Guineafowl Supremes
    • Pancetta
    • Olive Oil
  • For the Sauce
    • 150 grams of Golden Girolle
    • One small Shallot
    • One small Garlic Clove
    • Double Cream
    • Crème Fraîche
    • Dijon Mustard
    • Vegetable Stock
    • Parsley
    • Butter
    • Black Pepper
What You Do
  1. Pre-heat your oven to 180 °C or 355 °F
  2. Thinly slice the pancetta
  3. Open the supreme, add pancetta and then close the supreme, using kitchen twine
  4. Fry the supreme in olive oil in a heavy iron skillet until golden
  5. Transfer the skillet to the oven. The internal temperature of the meat should be minimum 70°C or 160°F.
  6. Clean the mushrooms with kitchen paper.
  7. Halve or quarter the mushrooms, depending on the size
  8. Finely chop the shallot and the garlic.
  9. When the guineafowl is ready, transfer the pan to your kitchen top, cover the meat with aluminium foil and allow to rest. This way the meat will be moist and not over-cooked.
  10. Now it’s time to prepare the sauce. Add butter to a warm pan, add the shallot, gently fry for a few minutes, add the girolles, fry, reduce heat, add the garlic.
  11. After a few minutes add the vegetable stock. Stir.
  12. After a few minutes add double cream, crème fraîche and some Dijon mustard.
  13. Stir well and create a thick creamy sauce. Taste and add some black pepper.
  14. wo minutes before serving add the parsley.
  15. Slice the guineafowl and serve 3 or 4 slices on top of the sauce.
Girolle and Guineafowl ©cadwu
Girolle and Guineafowl ©cadwu
PS

More mushroom recipes on our mushroom page.

Cordyceps

Bright orange mushrooms that look like spaetzle? Interesting. We pick one up and look carefully: a long stem but without a cap with spores. Odd. We ask if they are edible, and the obvious answer is “yes”. We buy 100 grams and decide to look for details and recipes in our mushroom cookery books when at home.
Hm. No mention of Cordyceps. We visit the Forager Chef (Alan Bergo) and read about the background of the Cordyceps (or better: Ophiocordyceps). Parasite mushroom, infects insects, controls them, takes over, kills and then sprouts a fruiting body from their head. The fruit we just bought…
Fortunately, the Cordyceps we bought are grown on substrates that are not made of insects, which make them less scary. Normally when we find a new mushroom on the market, we taste it raw, but not today.
We quickly wash our hands and watch this BBC video as suggested by Chef Bergo. Interesting, but we prefer the culinary aspects of mushrooms.

Use

In traditional Chinese medicine dried and powdered cordyceps are used. Today it is considered to be superfood, supposedly boosting your vitality and endurance. Fresh cordyceps are used in Chinese soups and hot pots. Chef Bergo uses them in a dish with linguini. He writes: “The cordyceps weren’t mind blowing, but they definitely weren’t bad”.
We decide to make an Asia-inspired salad, with stir fried cordyceps, obviously. The salad tasted great. It was nutty, mild, fresh and the texture of the mushrooms worked beautifully with the crunchy radishes. 

Wine Pairing

Best to drink a white wine with a touch of oak, perhaps a chardonnay. We tried something different, a wine made with a grape called Bouquet 1359. The wine is produced by French winery Abbotts & Delaunay. The grape was developed by Alain Bouquet. It is somewhat similar to the chardonnay grape but more resistant and easier to use in an ecologic environment. It comes with aromas of brioche and yellow fruit; the taste is fresh, long and slightly nutty. 

What You Need
  • 100 grams Cordyceps
  • 1 Scallion
  • Bok Choy
  • White Radishes or Daikon
  • Walnut Oil
  • Jerez Vinegar
  • Light Soy Sauce (we used Tsuyu)
  • French Mustard
  • Olive Oil
What You Do
  1. Clean the mushrooms if necessary
  2. Cook radishes or daikon for 4 minutes in boiling water
  3. Let cool quickly and slice or quarter
  4. Finely slice one or two bok choy stems, depending on the size
  5. Heat a skillet, add some olive oil and fry the mushrooms
  6. After 1 minute add the sliced bok choy and the pre-cooked radishes
  7. Toss, leave for 1 or 2 minutes and allow to cool
  8. Transfer to the refrigerator
  9. When ready to serve, make a dressing by combining walnut oil, soy sauce, Jerez vinegar and a touch of mustard. The mustard will emulsify the dressing
  10. Taste and adjust
  11. Happy?
  12. Then add the dressing to the salad, mix and serve as a side dish or small appetizer.
Inspiration

If you’re into video games you will have recognised cordyceps as inspiration of the action-adventure game The Last of Us, which was the inspiration for the American post-apocalyptic drama television series with the same tittle and produced by HBO.
The 2016 movie The Girl with All the Gifts was also inspired by cordyceps. Two Pokémon species are also based on Ophiocordyceps.

Nasty Details

A few days later we opened Merlin Sheldrake’s impressive book Entangled Life. He explains that the fungus doesn’t turn the insects into zombies but controls it like a puppeteer master. He describes how a specific species of Ophiocordyceps is focused on giant ants. The fungus infects the ant and from that moment on it controls the insect. In the end 40% of the body weight of the ant is mycelium (the network created by the fungus). Through the mycelium the fungus controls the ant. When the Ophiocordyceps is ready to propagate, it steers the ant to a height of approximately 25 cm, ideal for the fungus and its spores. The ant then bites into the main vein of a leaf and locks its jaws. The ant is now in an ideal position for the fungus. This is the moment the fungus kills the ant and the fruit begins to grow.
Very pleased our cordyceps were grown on a substrate of grains!

PS

More mushroom recipes on our mushroom page.

Girolle Omelette

Friday morning, beginning of September, we go shopping at the organic street market in the beautiful city of Haarlem. We want to buy fruit and vegetables, cheese and obviously mushrooms. The season just started but already the stall offers lobster mushrooms, truffle, chicken of the wood, mai take, trompette de la mort, cèpes and girolles, also the grey (grise) and the yellow ones (jaune). They look perfect and we decide to buy 150 grams. Greyish cap, bright yellow stem, perfect with an omelette. We cross the street and buy extremely old goat cheese, one that matured for 2 to 3 years. Its taste is full of umami, a bit spicy and makes us think of Roquefort. It will be perfect with the aromas and flavours of the girolle jaune.

Wine pairing

The fried girolle comes with an aroma that will make you think of a forest in autumn. Its taste is complex and nutty. The rich egg in combination with the grated old cheese made us decide to drink a glass of Flor de la Mar, barrel aged Chardonnay, produced by Casa Ermelinda Freitas in Portugal. The wine aged for 4 months in barrels made of American oak. It is medium bodied, nicely oaked and comes with hints of citrus and caramel. In general, you’re looking for a lightly oaked chardonnay, balanced, fresh, not too complex.

What You Need
  • 150 grams of Girolle (Jaune)
  • 2 Organic Eggs (preferably Demeter)
  • Very Old Goat Cheese
  • Garlic Clove
  • Olive oil
  • Butter
  • Black Pepper
What You Do

Whisk the eggs together. Warm a small non-stick pan, add some butter and make sure the pan is warm through and through. Add the mixture and leave on low heat until the omelette is baveuse. In the meantime, clean the mushrooms. Perhaps you need to cut off some of the stem. Slice the mushrooms lengthwise in halve. The stem is hollow and may contain sand or other bits of the forest floor. Quickly fry the mushrooms in olive oil. Grate some garlic and add to the mushrooms. Time to plate up: the omelette, fresh black pepper, the mushrooms and some grated goat cheese, not too much, it can be overpowering.

PS

More mushroom recipes on our mushroom page.