tartare – Cook and Drink

The Art of Sauces: Ravigote

28 December 2023

A classic, French sauce, traditionally served with Tête de Veau, but in general great with cold meat and cold, poached fish. A very simple, easy to make sauce with just the right acidity to brighten up your cold starter. The warm version is made with a broth, the cold one with oil, vinegar and mustard, as you would prepare a vinaigrette.
No eggs?
Indeed, no eggs. If you look at the list of ingredients, you could think of Remoulade or Tartare Sauce (both mayonnaise based) or Gribiche (made with hard boiled eggs). Ravigote is different, it’s light and uplifting. Just give it a try next time you serve cold meat or fish as a starter. Forget about the mayonnaise and enjoy this delicious, flavourful sauce.
We served our Ravigote with Pâté de Tête Persillé and crusted bread.

Wine Pairing

We enjoyed a glass of white Pontificis, made with Viognier and Chardonnay grapes by Badet- Clément. This is an oaked dry wine from the Languedoc-Roussillon region in France. It is elegant, with some oak, clear acidity and some bitterness. Creamy, with some vanilla, butter and perhaps tropical fruit. In general you’re looking for a white wine with clear acidity, oak and balance.

What You Need

Coarse Mustard (Moutarde à l’Ancienne)
White Wine Vinegar
Oil (Sunflower, Avocado)
3 Cornichons
8 Capers
1 Shallot
Parsley
Tarragon
Chervil
Black Pepper

What You Do

Finely chop the shallot, slice the cornichons, halve the capers
Chop the herbs
Combine a spoonful of mustard with the same amount of vinegar
Slowly add the oil until you have the right consistency and flavour
Add more vinegar to get the right acidity
Happy? Add shallot, cornichons and capers
Mix
Add a generous amount of parsley, tarragon and chervil
Finish the sauce with black pepper.

PS

The amount of tarragon depends on the type of tarragon and your personal preference. There are actually three types: French tarragon (intense and aromatic, the one to use in the kitchen), Russian tarragon (limited flavour, no complexity) and Mexican (a touch of anise, but not even close to French tarragon).

Tuna Tartare

27 February 2023

A starter that is tasty, appetizing and easy to make, one that will always put a smile on your face. The only challenge is to buy excellent, fresh tuna. Since most tuna species are overfished or at the risk of becoming overfished, make sure the tuna you buy is from sustainable fishing practices, for instance if it’s certified by MSC (Marine Stewardship Council). Whatever you do, look for skipjack or albacore and don’t buy bluefin (or yellowfin).

Wine Pairing

In general, enjoy the tartare with a white wine, for instance a Picpoul de Pinet or a Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine with aromas such as apple and peach. Flavour wise the wine must be dry with a mild citrussy flavour and some minerality.
We happily opened a bottle of Château de Crémat Blanc 2021. A wine with a light-yellow colour, with complex aroma’s (toast, floral, grapefruit) and a long finish.

What You Need

150 grams of Tuna
Capers
Organic Lemon (Zest and Juice)
Chives
Black Pepper

What You Do

Make sure you have all ingredients ready before you combine it with the tuna. If you mix too often, the tartare will become soggy.
Wash the lemon, make a teaspoon or so of zest, squeeze the lemon. If using salted capers, make sure to wash them carefully (and long); a salty taste will ruin the tartare. Better to use capers in brine. Dry the capers and chop. Take 5 or 10 sprigs of chives, cut in small bits using scissors. Dice the tuna. Add tuna, chopped capers, zest, chives and some black pepper to a bowl. Add a drizzle of lemon juice. Combine, taste and adjust. Cover with cling foil and transfer to the refrigerator for one or two hours. Decorate with mayonnaise and two sprigs of chives.