Bouchée a la Reine au Poisson

Crispy, fluffy, flaky puff pastry and a rich, warm ragoût, what better way to turn leftovers into a tasty starter. Bouchée a la Reine: a classic in Belgium and France. Not modern at all, but such fun to serve (and eat). The Bouchée a la Reine goes back to the days of Queen Marie Leszcynska, wife of King Louis XV. The story is that she tried to win back the attention of her husband (who was more interested in Madame de Pompadour) with these delicious small pastries. She assumed they would work as an aphrodisiac. One of her chefs (Nicolas Stohrer, also founder of the oldest patisserie in Paris) is probably the creator of Bouchée a la Reine (and Baba au Rhum by the way).
Enough history: you could fill the pastry with fish, poultry, mushrooms, sweetbread, just about anything will go, as long as you use a rich roux as basis.
Our ragoût combines fish with (common) shrimps. We bought halibut, a fish with compact, firm meat and a delicate taste, one that goes very well with butter, herbs and lemon. 

Wine Pairing

It all depends on the filling of your Bouchée a la Reine. Could be a light red wine if you have some left over veal, if it’s sweetbread then a lightly oaked chardonnay is fine et cetera. In all cases keep in mind that the filling comes with a generous amount of butter. In this case we enjoyed a glass of Mâcon, produced by Thierry Drouin. The wine has aromas of green apples and citrus, with a touch of toast and some minerality. Great in combination with the rich ragoût and its flavours. Good value for money too!

What You Need
  • One small Shallot
  • 100 grams of firm, delicate Fish
  • 50 grams of small Shrimps
  • 15 grams of Butter
  • 10 grams of All Purpose Flour
  • Fish Stock
  • Chervil
  • White Pepper
  • 2 Bouchées
What You Do
  1. Dice the raw fish (bite size)
  2. Finely chop the shallot
  3. Chop the chervil
  4. Warm the fish stock
  5. Preheat your oven to 180 °C or 355 °F
  6. Gently heat butter in a skillet
  7. Add the shallot and glaze for 5 minutes or so
  8. Add the flour
  9. Softly fry the flour until you begin smelling that typical cookie aroma
  10. Start adding the warm stock, slowly at first, constantly whisking.
  11. When the ragoût is ready, transfer the bouchées to the oven and leave for 10 minutes
  12. After 5 minutes, add the fish and combine
  13. After a few minutes the fish will be cooked
  14. Remove the pan from the heat
  15. Add white pepper, shrimps and chervil
  16. Combine
  17. Transfer the bouchées to the plates
  18. Add ragoût, decorate with chervil and serve immediately
PS

Normally we make our own stock. In this case we bought fish fond produced by Jürgen Langbein. We added water (1:1) to get the right stock for the ragout.

Bouchée a la Reine au Poisson ©cadwu made with a béchamel, halibut, shrimps and chervil
Bouchée a la Reine au Poisson ©cadwu

Saffron Milk Cap and Halibut

Earlier we wrote about Antonio Carluccio’s A Passion for Mushrooms, published in 1989. The book includes some wonderful recipes and intriguing combinations. The book also includes a chapter on conservation techniques. We prepared two dishes from the book, Sandwiched Parasol Mushrooms and Halibut with Saffron Milk Cap.
A Passion for Mushrooms is a must have for mushroom-lovers. The book is available via the usual channels and perhaps at your local second-hand bookstore. Prices will vary.

Halibut with Saffron Milk Cap

We were keen to read his chapter on mushrooms and fish because the combination is both challenging and surprising. We spotted a recipe with saffron milk cap, a popular mushroom in Spain, Portugal, Turkey, Scotland, Poland, Russia and many other European countries. Earlier we combined it with chorizo, with squid and we prepared a stew with eggplant and potatoes. Carluccio used the mushrooms to create a rich, creamy mushroom sauce which he combined with poached halibut. The fish is supported by the flavours and texture of the mushrooms and vice versa. Is it about saffron milk cap or about halibut? Absolutely delicious.

Wine Pairing

We opened a bottle of Rosenstock Grüner Veltliner, produced by Markus Huber in the Traisental region in Austria. Markus Huber is a young, internationally successful winemaker. The vineyards and the winery are organic and sustainable. He made a fresh, dry, fruity and aromatic white wine. Great accompaniment of the fish and the light character of the wine worked also very well with the rich mushroom sauce.
In general we suggest a light, refreshing, aromatic white wine.

What You Need
  • Filet of Halibut (skin on)
  • Butter
  • For the sauce
    • Saffron Milk Cap
    • Shallot
    • All Purpose Flour
    • Butter
    • Fish Stock
    • Vegetable Stock
    • Double Cream
    • Parsley
    • Dill
    • Mint
    • Mustard
    • Black Pepper
  • Crusted Bread
What You Do

Details of the recipe can be found in A Passion for Mushrooms. Buy the book and enjoy this dish and many more!

  1. Clean the mushrooms and slice.
  2. Chop the shallot finely.
  3. Chop and combine equal quantities of parsley, mint and dill.
  4. Add olive oil to a heavy iron skillet and fry the shallot.
  5. After a few minutes add the mushrooms. Reduce heat and fry for 5-10 minutes.
  6. Remove the shallot and the mushrooms from the pan.
  7. Use flour, butter and stock to make a basic sauce.
  8. Allow to integrate for a few minutes.
  9. The sauce should have a clear but not overpowering fish flavour.
  10. Add cream and mustard to the sauce. Mix.
  11. Add half of the herbs to the sauce. Mix.
  12. Add the mushrooms to the sauce.
  13. If necessary, add more stock to the sauce. Taste.
  14. In parallel, add butter to a non-stick pan and fry the halibut, skin down.
  15. When nearly done, turn the fish, colour the meat side, remove the skin and turn again.
  16. The sauce should be ready by now, so add the remainder of the herbs and some black pepper.
  17. Serve the fish on top of the sauce.
  18. Serve with crusted bread or steamed new potatoes.
Saffron Milk Cap and Halibut ©cadwu
Saffron Milk Cap and Halibut ©cadwu

Halibut with Morels

Seasonal eating is such a great idee. Simply buy (locally produced) seasonal fruit, vegetables and mushrooms, enjoy fresher and better tasting ingredients, reduce your carbon footprint and support your local community. And it creates lots of tasty opportunities: celebrate the beginning of the truffle season, the start of the asparagus season, the first red wine from the Beaujolais region – all good fun.

Part of the concept (at least, we think so) is commemorating the end of a season. In the Netherlands the morel-season ends early May. This year was a particularly good year for morels, we had some beautiful, tasty ones, for a reasonable price. But now it’s time to prepare the last morel dish of the season. And the last one with Ramson! A very tasty dish, one that requires a bit of work, but the result is absolutely yummy!

Wine Pairing

The richness of the dish requires a full-bodied white wine, for instance a glass of Chardonnay; one that has a touch of oak and vanilla plus a lightly buttery finish. Our choice would be the Chardonnay of La Cour des Dames

What You Need

  • Halibut
    • Halibut (slice with skin and bone preferred)
    • Olive Oil
  • Morels
    • 50 grams of Morels
    • Olive Oil
  • Sauce
    • Shallot
    • Olive Oil
    • Fish Stock
    • Noilly Prat
    • Crème Fraîche
    • Butter
    • White Pepper
  • Ramson (Wild Garlic)

What You Do

Clean and half the morels. Fry these gently in a heavy iron skillet for at least 10 minutes.
In parallel heat a small heavy iron skillet, gently fry the chopped shallot. When soft, add the garlic and one or two ice cubes of fish stock. Add a splash of Noilly Prat. When warm, blender the mixture, pass through a sieve and return to the pan. Add some crème fraiche. Warm through and through.
In parallel fry the halibut in a separate (non-stick) pan. First on the skin side, then turn the fish, remove the skin and turn again. The result should be golden. Whilst still in the pan, remove the bone. This gives you two portions of fish per person.
Slice a few leaves of ramson lengthwise, removing the vein.
When the fish is opaque, it’s time to add a bit of butter to the sauce and a touch of white pepper.
Serve the fish on top of the sauce, add the morels and the leaves.

PS

We served the halibut with morels on plates designed by Walter Gropius and produced by Rosenthal; a classic plate in Bauhaus Style.

Halibut with Morels ©cadwu
Halibut with Morels ©cadwu

Halibut Marinated in White Miso

Saikyo Yaki

Grilling is an art in its own right in Japan. A simple way is Shioyaki: the fish is salted, left to chill overnight and grilled the next day. An essential element of a Japanese breakfast, together with pickled plums (Umeboshi),  sweet yet savoury omelet (Tamagoyaki), rice, a bowl of miso soup and green tea. As you can imagine a traditional Japanese breakfast is rather nutritious and packed with flavours.

A well known grilling method is Teriyaki: the fish is marinated in a combination of soy sauce, mirin and sake for a few hours and then grilled, with the fish dipped in the sauce several times during the grilling process.

Another way is Saikyo Yaki: the fish is marinated in Saikyo miso for 5 days and then grilled. Saikyo miso is a white, slightly sweet, low sodium miso from Kyoto. The marinated and grilled fish is served with pickled ginger. Originally a way to preserve the fish, it’s now much liked because of the umami and the intriguing combination of flavours and aromas.

Sake Pairing

Best served with dry sake. We prefer Junmai Taru Sake as produced by Kiku-Masamune. The sake is matured in barrels made of the finest Yoshino cedar. The aroma has indeed clear hints of cedar. The sake will clear your palate and allow for a more intense taste of the marinated halibut.

What You Need

  • Two slices of fresh halibut (thin is best)
  • White Miso (preferable with less salt)
  • Pickled Ginger or Cucumber
  • Karashi (Japanese mustard)

What You Do

Start four or five days in advance. Coat the halibut with miso making sure the halibut is fully coated. Cover with foil and transfer to the fridge. Check on a daily basis if the fish is still covered.
Using a small spoon carefully remove most of the miso. Rinse the halibut with water and dry with kitchen paper. The white flesh should now be slightly orange. Heat a non sticky pan until warm, but not hot, through and through. If too hot, the fish will burn. We set our induction hob to 6 (where 9 is the maximum). Add a bit of olive oil and then fry the fish for 2*2 minutes. Serve on a warm plate with pickles and karashi.