Until January 17th 2027 on view in the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam is the retrospective of Yayoi Kusama, one of the most influential and pioneering artists of the 20th and 21st centuries. She was born in 1929 in Matsumoto (Japan). As a child she began painting pumpkins, dots, flowers and patterns. The dots transformed into her famous polka dots, the net of self-obliteration. Pumpkins continued to inspire her throughout her life. In 2015 she said in an interview “I love pumpkins because of their humorous form, warm feeling, and a human-like quality”.
This is a comprehensive video about Yayoi Kusama and this article provides background information about her pumpkins.
Eating pumpkins was perhaps not something Yayoi Kusama would do, but we simply love them. In autumn they bring warmth and comfort to the table. Both dishes are made with kabocha, the Japanese pumpkin.
Pumpkin Soup
A vegetarian soup made with kombu dashi, meaning its basis is made with dried kelp only. Soy sauce is added to the soup, bringing saltiness and umami, which combines very well with the exceptional sweetness of the pumpkin and the mirin. You could prepare the soup with an unpeeled kabocha, but we love the intense orange colour of the inside.
Pumpkin with Shrimps
The shrimps are marinated in sake for a few hours and then fried. The pumpkin is simmered in dashi with tentsuyu and mirin. The pan is deglazed with dashi, mirin and tentsuyu. The shrimps are coated with the sauce and served with three slices of kabocha and pickled cucumber.
Risotto is amongst our favourite dishes, especially risotto with mushrooms. Preparing risotto is not difficult, as long as you pay attention to the cooking process and use the right ingredients. It’s nearly the end of the porcini-season. We enjoyed them several times this year, but not yet in a risotto. Time to start cooking!
Wine Pairing
We enjoyed a nicely oaked, buttery South African chardonnay with our risotto with porcini. A full-bodied white wine with aromas of tropical fruit and toast. A wine that paired very well with the earthiness of the risotto and its rich flavours.
What You Need
90 grams of Carnaroli or Arborio rice
1 Shallot
Olive Oil
150 grams of fresh Porcini
Chicken or Vegetable Stock
Parmesan Cheese
Butter
Black Pepper
What You Do
Peel and chop the shallot
Clean the porcini
Slice the porcini; cube smaller parts
Warm the stock
Add olive oil to a pan and glaze the shallot
Add the smaller parts of the porcini
Add the rice to the pan and coat for 2 minutes
Keep the pan on medium heat; be patient
Start adding stock, spoon by spoon and stir frequently
Heat a heavy iron skillet and fry the sliced porcini in butter and oil
In total it may take 15 – 18 minutes before the rice is al dente
5 Minutes before the risotto is al dente, coarsely cut some of the fried porcini, making sure you have a few nice slices for decoration
Add the coarsely cut and fried porcini to the risotto
When the risotto is ready, transfer the pan to the kitchen countertop and leave to rest for 2 minutes.
Add grated Parmesan cheese and combine
Add butter and combine
Add some black pepper, taste, add more Parmesan cheese and/or butter if so required.
In 1989 Antonio Carluccio published A Passion for Mushrooms. The book describes various mushrooms, discusses their habitat and edibility and of course offers a range of mushroom recipes. A Passion for Mushrooms includes some wonderful recipes and combinations we didn’t expect, for instance Truite aux Pied Blues and Ragout de Crevettes Rose et de Morilles. The book also includes a chapter on conservation techniques. Earlier we prepared two dishes from the book, Sandwiched Parasol Mushrooms and Halibut with Saffron Milk Cap. A Passion for Mushrooms is a must have for mushroom-lovers. The book is available via the usual channels and perhaps at your local second-hand bookstore. Prices will vary.
Trompette de la Mort
Horn of Plenty is a black chanterelle, also known as Trompette de la Mort, Black Trumpet, or Trumpet of the Dead. A very tasty mushroom, with just one downside: removing all the sand, small leaves and unappetizing bits is a lot of work. Carluccio poaches sole fillets and combines these with a combination of mushrooms, butter and lemon. Inspired by his recipe we prepared Horn of Plenty with Sole and a Lemon Sauce.
Wine Pairing
We enjoyed a glass of white Rioja with our Trompette de la Mort. The wine is made by Vivanco with three Spanish grapes: Viura, Tempranillo Blanco (a grape discovered in 1988) and Maturana Blanca (a grape that goes back to 1622). The result is a bright, intense white wine with aromas of citrus fruit and green apples. Fresh, tasty and a great match with the flavours of the mushrooms, the sole and the acidity of the sauce. In general, we suggest a non-oaked, fresh, dry white wine, with clear acidity.
What You Need
For the Poached Sole
4 fillets of Small Sole
5 cm of Carrot
5 cm of Celery Stalk
1 Bay Leave
Crushed black pepper
For the Mushrooms
100 grams horn of plenty
¼ Red Bell Pepper
Olive Oil
Black Pepper
For the Sauce
1 Egg Yolk
20 ml Lemon Juice
10 ml Water
1 Teaspoon of Mirin
White Pepper
What You Do
Clean the mushrooms
Finely cube the red bell pepper
Warm a pan of water until just simmering. It’s crucial not to overheat the water. The internal temperature of fish should be between 70 °C and 75 °C (or 160 °F and 165 °F).
Add sliced carrot, sliced celery, bay leave and crushed black pepper
Leave on this temperature for 10 minutes or so
Heat a heavy iron skillet and add some olive oil
Reduce heat and add cubed bell pepper
Role up the fillet: skin side on the outside and start with the smaller part of the fillet
Use a simple wooden cocktail stick to fix the role
Poach the sole until done, depending on the size, 4 minutes
Keep the sole warm in an oven at 65 °C or 150 °F
Add the mushrooms to the pan with the bell pepper
Fry gently
Add some black pepper to taste
Keep an eye on the mushrooms
Combine egg yolk, lemon juice and mirin
Make the sauce au bain marie or in the microwave
Add some white pepper to the sauce
Serve the sole on top of the mushrooms
Add the lemon sauce
Serve immediately on a warm plate
PS
The sauce is based on Japanese Kimizu. In this recipe we explain how to use a microwave.
You could also use grilled and peeled red bell pepper. That will give some smokiness to the dish, which is nice, but not necessary.
Let’s enjoy the last fresh beetroots of this season by making a pie with lots of beetroot, cheese and thyme. The pie combines sweetness with savoury and slightly tangy flavours. Best to prepare a day in advance, allowing for the flavours to integrate. We top the pie with Chioggia beetroot because of their beautiful colour and pattern.
Wine Pairing
Caruso e Minini Terre Siciliane Bibbo Zibibbo, doesn’t that sound like a wonderful wine? The wine is produced by the Sicilian company Caruso e Minini, which explains the first part of the name. How about Bibbo Zibibbo? The grape used to make this wine is the Muscat of Alexandria, known as Zibibbo in Sicily. The wine is aromatic with fruity notes (think apricot, hints of almond and orange blossom). You will taste a gentle, dry wine with flavours of dried fruit. The wine has a long and present finish. In general, we suggest a light, dry white wine with floral and fruity notes. It must have some sweetness to balance the taste of the beetroots.
What You Need
For the Dough
100 grams of All Purpose Flour
50 grams of Water
10 grams of Olive Oil
1 gram of Salt
For the Filling
One Red Beetroot
One Chioggia Beetroot
Firm Goat Cheese
One Red Onion
Thyme
Black Pepper
What You Do
Clean the beetroots and wrap seperatly in aluminium foil
Transfer to the oven at 180 ˚C or 355 ˚F and cook for 45-60 minutes, depending on the size
Let cool
Combine flour, salt, water and olive oil and make the dough
Kneed for a minute or so and store in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes
Slice and quarter the onion
Fry the onion on low heat in olive oil until soft
Peel and slice the beetroots
Roll out the dough using a rolling pin on a lightly floured surface. Coat a 15 cm or 6 inch round baking form with oil
Cover the form with the dough
Build the pie, first a layer of red beetroot, followed by grated cheese, onion, lots of thyme and black pepper
Repeat
Top with gioggia beetroot
Brush the top with olive oil
Transfer to the oven for 40-50 minutes on 180-200 ˚C or 355-390 ˚F
Immediately after having removed the pie from the oven, brush the top with olive oil. This will intensify the colour of the crust
Let cool and enjoy the next day; warm is best (preferably 65 ˚C or 150 ˚F)
PS
We didn’t explain Bibbo as part of name Caruso e Minini Terre Siciliane Bibbo Zibibbo . We believe it’s the pet name of Zibibbo.
Earlier we wrote about Antonio Carluccio’s A Passion for Mushrooms, published in 1989. The book includes some wonderful recipes and intriguing combinations. The book also includes a chapter on conservation techniques. We prepared two dishes from the book, Sandwiched Parasol Mushrooms and Halibut with Saffron Milk Cap. A Passion for Mushrooms is a must have for mushroom-lovers. The book is available via the usual channels and perhaps at your local second-hand bookstore. Prices will vary.
Halibut with Saffron Milk Cap
We were keen to read his chapter on mushrooms and fish because the combination is both challenging and surprising. We spotted a recipe with saffron milk cap, a popular mushroom in Spain, Portugal, Turkey, Scotland, Poland, Russia and many other European countries. Earlier we combined it with chorizo, with squid and we prepared a stew with eggplant and potatoes. Carluccio used the mushrooms to create a rich, creamy mushroom sauce which he combined with poached halibut. The fish is supported by the flavours and texture of the mushrooms and vice versa. Is it about saffron milk cap or about halibut? Absolutely delicious.
Wine Pairing
We opened a bottle of Rosenstock Grüner Veltliner, produced by Markus Huber in the Traisental region in Austria. Markus Huber is a young, internationally successful winemaker. The vineyards and the winery are organic and sustainable. He made a fresh, dry, fruity and aromatic white wine. Great accompaniment of the fish and the light character of the wine worked also very well with the rich mushroom sauce. In general we suggest a light, refreshing, aromatic white wine.
What You Need
Filet of Halibut (skin on)
Butter
For the sauce
Saffron Milk Cap
Shallot
All Purpose Flour
Butter
Fish Stock
Vegetable Stock
Double Cream
Parsley
Dill
Mint
Mustard
Black Pepper
Crusted Bread
What You Do
Details of the recipe can be found in A Passion for Mushrooms. Buy the book and enjoy this dish and many more!
Clean the mushrooms and slice.
Chop the shallot finely.
Chop and combine equal quantities of parsley, mint and dill.
Add olive oil to a heavy iron skillet and fry the shallot.
After a few minutes add the mushrooms. Reduce heat and fry for 5-10 minutes.
Remove the shallot and the mushrooms from the pan.
Use flour, butter and stock to make a basic sauce.
Allow to integrate for a few minutes.
The sauce should have a clear but not overpowering fish flavour.
Add cream and mustard to the sauce. Mix.
Add half of the herbs to the sauce. Mix.
Add the mushrooms to the sauce.
If necessary, add more stock to the sauce. Taste.
In parallel, add butter to a non-stick pan and fry the halibut, skin down.
When nearly done, turn the fish, colour the meat side, remove the skin and turn again.
The sauce should be ready by now, so add the remainder of the herbs and some black pepper.
Perhaps we were thinking about Tartelette when we assumed Tartiflette was something sweet and small. But then we saw a cheese with ‘Fromage pour Tartiflette’ on its wrapping. We bought the cheese, looked for recipes and made Tartiflette. Two things for sure, it’s not sweet and not small.
In 1705 French chef François Massialot wrote Le Cuisinier Roïal et Bourgeois. According to wikipedia and others one of the recipes in this book is for Péla, a dish from the Savoie area. It’s a fairly simple dish with cheese, potatoes, bacon and onions. The dish is named after the pan in which it was prepared. In the 1980’s too much of the local Savoie cheese Reblochon was produced and clever marketing people of the Syndicat Interprofessionnel du Reblochon created the Tartiflette, a Péla with Reblochon.
Obviously, we wanted to verify the story, so we looked for the recipe for Péla by François Massialot in the 1705 edition of Le Cuisinier Roïal et Bourgeois. No Péla. Well, people make mistakes, Perhaps it was included in the first edition, published in 1691? No, it wasn’t. Maybe he added the recipe later? We checked the index of the renewed 1728 edition: no Péla.
Did François Massialot write about Péla? Probably not.
Péla was (as is Tartiflette) a simple dish which makes it an unlikely candidate for royalty and bourgeois. Furthermore in those days potatoes had a bad reputation, they were seen as ‘coarse, insipid and the cause of flatulence’ (according to Barbara Ketcham Wheaton, in Savoring the Past). Not something you would happily serve to your king (and survive).
Back to the Tartiflette. It’s a tasty combination of bacon, onions, potatoes and reblochon, probably a modernized and commercialised version of an existing dish from the Savoie area, but nevertheless delicious.
Wine Pairing
An aromatic, white wine with clear acidity will go very well with the dish. It will add freshness to the combination. We decided to enjoy a red wine, one with supple tannins, medium bodied. Our choice was a glass of Château Margilliere Bastide, a wine from the Var region in France, made with grapes such as syrah, cabernet franc and grenache. A well-balanced red wine, with notes of cherries, gentle acidity and a touch of spiciness. Great with all ingredients of the tartiflette.
Always fun to shop at our organic supermarket and see what forgotten vegetables they have. This week they offered oca, Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus Tuberoses), parsnip, black radish and helianthus, which was new to us. We bought a few of the helianthus roots and when at home we started thinking about ways to prepare them. Both Jerusalem artichoke and the helianthus roots are a touch sweet and nutty. A purée perhaps? We then noticed a recipe for a tartelette with blue cheese. Great idea, but not so sure about the combination with pastry. After a few minutes we came up with the recipe below. The helianthus roots are creamier than the Jerusalem artichokes and this worked very well in the combination with blue cheese and crème fraîche.The dish is rich with a touch of freshness.
Wine Pairing
In general, we suggest a full bodied, well balanced red wine, with aromas of black fruit, perhaps liquorice and with supple tannins.
What You Need
Roots of the Helianthus Strumosus
Crème Fraîche
Roquefort
What You Do
Clean the roots and cook in boiling water for perhaps 5 minutes. They become soft very quickly. Drain and let cool. In parallel use a fork to combine equal parts of crème fraîche and Roquefort. Slice the roots and combine with the mixture. Place in ramekins and transfer to the oven at 200 °C or 390 °F for a few minutes, until hot and golden. You can also place them under the grill for a few minutes.
Earlier we wrote about mashua and oca, two forgotten vegetables. This week we enjoyed tuberous chervil, another forgotten vegetable, also known as turnip chervil and bulbous chervil. Popular throughout continental Europe in the 19th century, but now hard to find. The tubers we bought had a length of approximately 4 cm and a thickness of 2 cm. They are white on the inside. The tuberous chervil is very tasty, easy to prepare, and its flavour will make you think of chestnuts, without a hint of bitterness. As more often, these winter vegetables were replaced by potatoes: cheaper, easier to handle and easier to grow. The ‘chervil’ in the name does not mean it’s the tuber of the chervil plant (like parsley and parsley root are related). It’s included because the leaves of tuberous chervil (see picture below) look like the leaves of chervil. The two are not at all related. According to some sources tuberous chervil can be eaten raw. We tried it, of course, and yes, edible, but not great. We prefer to turn the tubers into a purée, with cream, butter and nutmeg. We combined the purée with lamb chops and with scallops. The second combination didn’t work, as if bringing the two together diminished the individual flavours. The first combination was delicious, the sweetness of the meat with the chestnut flavour, the freshness of the puree with the fatty lamb.
Wine Pairing
We enjoyed a glass of red wine from the Bordeaux region with our purée and lamb, produced by Château Picon. A very nice, affordable wine, with some dark fruit and acidity. In general, we suggest a not too complex red wine, made with for instance cabernet sauvignon and/or merlot grapes.
What You Need
250 grams of Tuberous Chervil
Butter
Cream
Nutmeg
Black Pepper
What You Do
If the tuberous chervil are young and fresh, you don’t need to peel them. The ones we bought were a bit older, so we peeled them. Wash and cook for 5-10 minutes until soft. Drain. Mash using a fork, add butter and cream. Use a spoon to make the purée. The tubers love both, so you will probably need to add a bit more than expected. Keep warm on low heat, add black pepper and freshly grated nutmeg to taste. Quickly fry the lamb chops, add lots of herbes de Provence or a combination of thyme and oregano and serve with the purée.
Going through our list of mushroom recipes, we noticed we didn’t have one with Pied de Mouton. Very odd! The taste of this firm mushroom is a bit sweet, nutty and mild. The mushroom is slightly dry and tends to absorb flavours and juices of other ingredients. The season of the Pied de Mouton begins in August and continues until January, sometimes even March. A very affordable and tasty wild mushroom that keeps very well in your refrigerator. Very nice in a creamy pasta dish, with a meat ragoût or in a casserole with vegetables and lentils. We decided to add them to a Paillasson de Pommes de Terre, which is similar to the Galette de Pommes de Terre, the Reibekuche in Germany and the Rösti in Switzerland. Ingredients vary per country, per region. Inspired by the Potato paillasse with sage and young garlic by Alain Passard, we decided to keep things simple and tasty.
Wine Pairing
The Paillasson with Pied de Mouton is creamy, moist, rich and aromatic. We think it’s best with a fruity, non-oaked red wine, for instance a Pinot Noir or a Merlot. Not too complex!
What You Need
250 grams of Potatoes (waxy)
200 grams of Pied de Mouton
15 grams of Pancetta (Bacon)
Butter
Olive Oil
Rosemary
2 cloves of Garlic
Black Pepper
What You Do
Heat a small non-stick pan. Dice the pancetta and fry in olive oil. Remove and set aside. Use a brush to clean the mushrooms. Dice. Fry the mushrooms for 5 minutes. Add finely chopped garlic and finely chopped rosemary. Remove and set aside. Add some black pepper. Grate the potatoes, add black pepper and combine with the mushrooms and the pancetta. Add a generous amount of butter to the pan. Fry the paillasson for 10 minutes, flip, and fry for another 10 minutes, depending on the thickness. We decided to go for 15+10.
PS
The easiest way to flip the paillasson is to let it slide from the pan on a cutting board. Cover the paillasson with the pan, turn the board and the pan and you’re done.
In 2005 Antonio Carluccio published The Quiet Hunt, the Complete Mushroom Book. In this book he describes various mushrooms, discusses their habitat and edibility and of course offers a range of mushroom recipes. Recently we were at a second-hand bookstore, and we spotted La Passion des Champignons. We assumed that this was the French version of The Quiet Hunt, but surprisingly it wasn’t! The original of this book is called A Passion for Mushrooms and was published in 1989. We obviously expected some overlap between the two, but since we saw several new recipes, we decided to buy it. As soon as we were at home, we compared the two books. In a Passion for Mushrooms, you will also find descriptions of various mushrooms plus a range of mushroom recipes. The overlap however is minimal. A Passion for Mushrooms includes some wonderful recipes and combinations we didn’t expect, for instance Filet de Bœuf aux Pleurotes et aux Chanterelles, Truite aux Pied Blues, Ragout de Crevettes Rose et de Morilles and Velouté d’Huitre aux Truffes. The book also includes a chapter on conservation techniques.
We prepared two dishes from the book, Sandwiched Parasol Mushrooms and Halibut with Saffron Milk Cap.
A Passion for Mushrooms is a must have for mushroom-lovers. The book is available via the usual channels and perhaps at your local second-hand bookstore. Prices will vary.
Sandwiched Mushrooms
The Parasol Mushroom is a common mushroom in many countries. It is very tasty and easy to prepare. It has a beautiful juicy and meaty texture, and its flavour is delicate with a touch of lemon. Simply fry the caps alla Milanese or stuff young parasol mushrooms with onion, sage or minced meat. Or in this case, with ham and cheese! We liked the idea of sandwiching because it allows for a nice amount of stuffing and it keeps the mushroom intact. By frying the sandwiched parasol mushrooms in the oven, the mushrooms will become thin and crunchy. The flavour of the stuffing was more complex than we expected. The combination of ham, cheese and parsley worked very well. Be careful with the breadcrumbs, these are only needed to get the right consistency.
Wine Pairing
A Pinot Grigio from the Italian Alto Adige region will be a great accompaniment. In general, you’re looking for a white, fresh, dry, non oaked wine with floral notes.
What You Need
4 Parasol Mushrooms or large Mushrooms (portabella)
Shallot
Garlic
Egg
Breadcrumbs
Gruyere or Emmenthaler
Parmesan Cheese
Ham
Parsley
Black Pepper
Olive Oil
What You Do
Details of the recipe can be found in A Passion for Mushrooms. Buy the book and enjoy this dish and many more! Finely chop the shallot and fry in olive oil. Clean the mushroom and discard the stem (if using parasol mushrooms, otherwise chop the stems and fry with the shallot). Add finely chopped garlic to the pan. After a few minutes remove from the heat and allow to cool. Chop the ham and the parsley, grate the two cheeses. Whisk the egg, add cheeses, black pepper, parsley and ham. Add the shallot and garlic. Add breadcrumbs. Add half of the mixture on top of a cap and close with another slightly smaller cap. Add oil to a baking tray, add the two sets of mushrooms. Brush with olive oil, sprinkle with some breadcrumbs and then add a few drops of olive oil. Fry in the oven at 180 °C or 355 °F for 20 minutes.
